🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.