Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
